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Acrylic Laser Engraving and Cutting Settings for TOOCAA NOVA and L2

Acrylic is one of the most popular materials for laser engraving and cutting because it produces crisp, professional-looking results with very little post-processing. Whether you're making LED signs, awards, keychains, business signage, or custom gifts, choosing the correct acrylic laser engraving and cutting settings is essential for achieving clean edges, flame-polished cuts, and precise surface detail. Different acrylic types respond differently to laser power and speed. Clear acrylic behaves very differently from black or colored acrylic under a diode laser, and thickness, surface finish, and protective film all affect the final result. Using the wrong settings may result in melted or rough edges, incomplete cuts, cloudy engraving, or excess smoke residue. For this reason, it's always recommended to perform a small material test before starting a full project, especially when using a new acrylic color or thickness. In this guide, you'll learn the recommended acrylic laser engraving and cutting settings for the TOOCAA L2 (10W, 20W, and 40W diode modules) and the TOOCAA NOVA (10W and 20W diode modules), including practical material settings tables, step-by-step machine setup instructions, workflow guidance, and project ideas for different acrylic types. By following these recommendations, you can improve edge quality, reduce wasted material, and achieve more consistent results for both hobby and small business projects. Whether you're comparing TOOCAA L2 acrylic settings against TOOCAA NOVA acrylic settings or simply looking for reliable laser engraving acrylic and laser cutting acrylic settings you can trust, this guide walks you through both machines step by step. Choose Your Acrylic Type Selecting the right acrylic is just as important as dialing in the correct laser settings. Acrylic sheets vary in color, transparency, thickness, and surface finish, and these differences directly affect how the material absorbs laser energy. Clear and transparent acrylics cannot be engraved or cut with a diode laser. Because the diode laser's visible light passes straight through transparent acrylic without being absorbed, the laser has no effect on the material. A CO₂ laser is required for clear acrylic. Black acrylic, on the other hand, absorbs light efficiently and is by far the most diode-laser-friendly color — it engraves with a crisp frosted-white contrast and cuts with smooth, flame-polished edges. White, colored, and light-toned acrylics (red, brown-red, light green, deep blue, yellow) sit in between: they generally cut well but may need higher power or slower speeds for engraving, and results can vary noticeably by pigment and manufacturer. Other factors that influence the outcome include:  Thickness – thicker sheets need more passes or slower cutting speeds to cut all the way through. Surface finish – cast acrylic generally engraves with better contrast than extruded acrylic Transparency – clear and frosted acrylics scatter or transmit light differently than opaque colors, changing how deep and even the engraving looks. Heat sensitivity – acrylic melts before it vaporizes, so too much power or too slow a speed can leave melted, rounded edges instead of a clean cut.  Edge quality and flame-polished appearance—a properly cut edge should look smooth and slightly glassy; a rough, whitish edge usually means the settings need adjusting.  Protective film—most acrylic sheets ship with a protective film on one or both sides. Because acrylic formulations and pigments vary between manufacturers and production batches, the settings in this guide are intended as a practical starting point for the TOOCAA L2 and TOOCAA NOVA. Always perform a small material test before beginning your final project, and fine-tune power, speed, and passes to minimize melted edges and achieve the finish you want. TOOCAA L2 Acrylic Settings The TOOCAA L2 can be fitted with a 10W, 20W, or 40W diode laser module. The tables below list TOOCAA's published acrylic-related engraving and cutting settings for each module. Use these values as your starting point, then fine-tune based on your specific acrylic color, batch, and desired finish. Cut mode vs. Line mode: in TOOCAA Studio, cut mode is the mode that actually cuts all the way through the material. Line mode only traces the vector outline as a surface score or scribe line and will not cut through the material, even at high power. Fill mode is used for surface engraving (filling in shapes with raster lines). The "Cutting" columns below correspond to Cut mode; the "Engraving" columns correspond to Fill mode. TOOCAA L2 10W Acrylic Settings Acrylic Type Thickness Engraving Power Engraving Speed Engraving Passes Cutting Power Cutting Speed Cutting Passes Black Acrylic 2.6 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Red Acrylic 2.4 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Brown Red Acrylic 2.6 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Light Green Acrylic 2.5 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 White Acrylic 2.5 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Deep Blue Acrylic 2.5 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Yellow Acrylic 2.6 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 TOOCAA L2 20W Acrylic Settings Acrylic Type Thickness Engraving Power Engraving Speed Engraving Passes Cutting Power Cutting Speed Cutting Passes Black Acrylic 2.6 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Red Acrylic 2.4 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Brown Red Acrylic 2.6 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Light Green Acrylic 2.5 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 White Acrylic 2.5 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Deep Blue Acrylic 2.5 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Yellow Acrylic 2.6 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 TOOCAA L2 40W Acrylic Settings Acrylic Type Thickness Engraving Power Engraving Speed Engraving Passes Cutting Power Cutting Speed Cutting Passes Black Acrylic 2.6 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 Red Acrylic 2.4 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 Brown Red Acrylic 2.6 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 Light Green Acrylic 2.5 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 White Acrylic 2.5 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 Deep Blue Acrylic 2.5 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 Yellow Acrylic 2.6 mm 18% 20000 mm/min 1 100% 400 mm/min 1 How to Set Up and Use TOOCAA L2 for Acrylic TOOCAA Studio is the software used to design, position, and control engraving and cutting jobs on the TOOCAA L2. Follow the steps below to go from opening the software to finishing your acrylic project. The setup workflow for acrylic in TOOCAA Studio follows the same overall steps as other materials, but acrylic has several specific requirements at key points particularly around protective film management, air assist, laser focus, and fume ventilation. These acrylic-specific considerations are highlighted in each relevant step below. Step 1: Open TOOCAA Studio Open TOOCAA Studio. Before placing your acrylic sheet, make sure the work surface is clean. Acrylic is more susceptible to surface scratches than wood, and debris under the sheet can cause uneven focus. Step 2: Select Your Device Select TOOCAA L2 from the device list in the top-right corner of TOOCAA Studio. If you are switching from a wood project, check that the lens is clean before starting — acrylic cutting produces residue that can build up on the lens and reduce cutting performance. Step 3: Connect the Machine Connect the TOOCAA L2 to your laptop or PC using a USB cable. Before starting, confirm that your ventilation or exhaust is working — acrylic produces stronger fumes than wood, and proper ventilation is essential.   Step 4: Select Your Material After connecting, choose your material. Open the Material panel from the right sidebar, select Acrylic, then choose the specific acrylic color and thickness you're working with — for example, 2.6 mm Black Acrylic. Step 5: Import or Create Your Design Import your design file or create a shape in TOOCAA Studio. For acrylic cutting, keep in mind that sharp internal corners may show slight melting—rounding sharp corners in your design slightly can help produce cleaner results. Step 6: Adjust the Size Fine-tune your design's dimensions using the Size (mm) fields in the top-left corner. For acrylic, account for the kerf (the small amount of material removed by the laser beam) when sizing parts that need to fit together precisely. Step 7: Assign Colors to Set Up Layers Assign a color to each part of your design that should be processed differently. Each color becomes its own layer, so you can apply separate settings to engraving areas versus cutting lines. Step 8: Set the Layer Mode  In the Layers panel, set the processing mode for each layer. Choose Cut mode for a layer you want the laser to cut all the way through — this is the mode used for cutting, not Line mode. Line mode only scores or marks the surface with a thin vector line and will not cut through the material. Use Fill mode for a layer you want to engrave (surface marking without cutting through). Step 9: Set Power, Speed, Passes, and Interval For each layer, enter the Mode, Speed, Power, Passes, and Interval values. Use the acrylic settings tables above as your reference — for example, 2.6 mm Black Acrylic — and adjust from there based on your test results. TOOCAA Studio's built-in material guide can also be used as a starting reference. Note: Once you select your acrylic type on material panel and choose a processing mode (Fill or Cut) for the layer, TOOCAA Studio automatically fills in the matching engraving or cutting parameters from its built-in material library — you don't need to type these values in manually. Use the tables above to check the values it loads, and fine-tune from there based on your own test results. Step 10: Focus the Laser Before running the job, lower the L2's focus lever until it touches the surface of your material, then lock it in place. Accurate focus has a major impact on both engraving sharpness and cutting edge quality. Step 11: Run a Small Test First Cut or engrave a small test shape on a scrap piece of the same acrylic — ideally from the same sheet and batch. Check the cut edge quality: a clean acrylic cut should look smooth and slightly glassy. If the edge looks rough, whitish, or melted, adjust your speed or power before running the full job. Step 12: Start the Engraving or Cutting Job Once you're happy with the test result, close the enclosure door and click Start in TOOCAA Studio to run the full job. For cutting, make sure air assist is switched on — air assist helps clear melted debris and reduces edge charring on acrylic. Step 13: Finish and Remove Your Piece After the job completes, let the exhaust fan clear the smoke for a few seconds before opening the door and removing your finished piece. A few acrylic-specific tips worth keeping in mind: Remove or keep the protective film depending on the project. Leaving the film on when possible helps reduce surface smoke marks and residue during cutting; peel it off first if you're engraving a design that needs to show through a clear or frosted surface.  Always use air assist when cutting acrylic. It keeps the cut line clear of melted material and helps produce a cleaner, flame-polished edge. Avoid overheating thin acrylic. Too much power or too slow a speed can cause thin sheets to warp, bubble, or melt beyond the cut line — a quick test patch will show you if your settings run too hot. TOOCAA NOVA Acrylic Settings The TOOCAA NOVA can be fitted with a 10W or 20W diode laser module. The TOOCAA NOVA and TOOCAA L2 both use the same diode laser type, so at a matching module power the two machines share the same recommended parameters — the tables below list the same TOOCAA 10W and 20W acrylic values used for the L2 above, applied directly to the NOVA. Note: Laser optics, focus height, and beam characteristics can still vary slightly between machines, so always run a small test cut on scrap acrylic before committing to a full project. TOOCAA NOVA 10W Acrylic Settings Acrylic Type Thickness Engraving Power Engraving Speed Engraving Passes Cutting Power Cutting Speed Cutting Passes Black Acrylic 2.6 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Red Acrylic 2.4 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Brown Red Acrylic 2.6 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Light Green Acrylic 2.5 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 White Acrylic 2.5 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Deep Blue Acrylic 2.5 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 Yellow Acrylic 2.6 mm 50% 3000 mm/min 1 100% 120 mm/min 1 TOOCAA NOVA 20W Acrylic Settings Acrylic Type Thickness Engraving Power Engraving Speed Engraving Passes Cutting Power Cutting Speed Cutting Passes Black Acrylic 2.6 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Red Acrylic 2.4 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Brown Red Acrylic 2.6 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Light Green Acrylic 2.5 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 White Acrylic 2.5 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Deep Blue Acrylic 2.5 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Yellow Acrylic 2.6 mm 60% 21000 mm/min 1 100% 300 mm/min 1 Since the NOVA uses the same diode laser technology as the L2, equivalent modules share the same recommended acrylic settings. Because acrylic sheets can vary between production batches and each machine's optics are individually calibrated, it's still worth running a small test before starting a full project. How to Set Up and Use TOOCAA NOVA for Acrylic The TOOCAA NOVA workflow in TOOCAA Studio follows the same overall pattern as the L2, with a few extra device-specific features. Here's how it works: Step 1: Open TOOCAA Studio As with the L2, start by opening TOOCAA Studio, which shows an empty workspace with your machine's working area outlined. Step 2: Select TOOCAA NOVA as Your Device From the top-right corner of TOOCAA Studio, select your device and choose TOOCAA NOVA from the list. Step 3: Connect the Machine Connect the TOOCAA NOVA to your laptop or PC, the same way you would connect the L2. Step 4: Select Your Material Select your material the same way described in the TOOCAA L2 steps above — open the Material panel, choose Acrylic, then pick your specific acrylic color and thickness. Step 5: Import or Create Your Design and Adjust the Size Import your design file, or create a shape directly in TOOCAA Studio. Then adjust your design's dimensions using the Size (mm) fields in the top-left corner. Or use your mouse to drag the shape to enlarge or reduce it. Step 6: Assign Colors to Set Up Layers  Assign a color to each part of your design that needs different treatment — each color becomes a separate layer for engraving or cutting. As with the L2, choose Cut mode for a layer that should be cut all the way through, and Fill mode for a layer that should be engraved; Line mode only scores the surface and will not cut through. Step 7: Set the Layer Mode In the Layers panel, set the processing mode for each layer. Choose Cut mode for a layer you want the laser to cut all the way through — this is the mode used for cutting, not Line mode. Line mode only scores or marks the surface with a thin vector line and will not cut through the material. Use Fill mode for a layer you want to engrave (surface marking without cutting through). Step 8: Set Power, Speed, Passes, and Interval  For each layer, set the Mode, Speed, Power, Passes, and Interval, using the acrylic settings tables above as your starting reference. Note: As on the L2, once your acrylic type, thickness, and layer mode (Fill or Cut) are selected, TOOCAA Studio automatically sets the matching engraving or cutting parameters from its built-in material library. Use the tables above to confirm the loaded values and fine-tune from there. Step 9: Focus and Preview Your Material  Use the NOVA's auto-focus feature to set focus quickly and accurately, and confirm your material placement using the live camera preview before running the job. Auto focus is especially useful for acrylic since accurate focus has a big impact on cut edge quality. Step 10: Run a Small Test First  As with the L2, run a small test engrave or cut on scrap acrylic first, and adjust your settings if the result is too light, doesn't fully cut through, or leaves melted edges. Step 11: Start the Engraving or Cutting Job  Once your test looks right, close the lid and start the job from TOOCAA Studio or the NOVA's touchscreen. For cutting, confirm that the smart air assist is active — it automatically adjusts airflow to help keep the cut edge clean on acrylic. Step 12: Finish and Remove Your Piece  Wait for the built-in air filtration to clear smoke before opening the lid and removing your finished piece. The NOVA's smart air assist and built-in air filtration are especially helpful with acrylic, since cutting it produces more localized smoke and fumes right at the cut line than engraving alone. What Can You Make with Acrylic? Each acrylic type has its own visual character, which makes certain colors better suited to certain projects. Clear Acrylic Clear acrylic cannot be engraved or cut with a diode laser such as the TOOCAA L2 or TOOCAA NOVA. Because diode lasers emit visible light that passes straight through transparent acrylic without being absorbed, the laser has no effect on the material. A CO₂ laser is required for clear acrylic. If you have access to a CO₂ laser, clear acrylic is an excellent choice for LED edge-lit signs, awards, and display stands. Black Acrylic Black acrylic's frosted-white engraving contrast and clean-cutting edges make it one of the most popular choices for business signs, nameplates, and control panels. White Acrylic White acrylic offers strong contrast for text and graphics, making it a good option for decorative signs and product labels. Frosted Acrylic The soft, diffused look of frosted acrylic works well for privacy panels and interior décor pieces where a subtle, translucent finish is desired. Colored Acrylic Colored sheets like red, brown-red, light green, deep blue, and yellow are popular for keychains, cake toppers, wall art, and custom gifts, where a pop of color adds personality to the finished piece. Acrylic Project Ideas Looking for inspiration? Here are a few popular project ideas you can make using the settings and acrylic types covered in this guide. LED Acrylic Signs — Frosted acrylic engraved with a design and edge-lit with LEDs creates a striking glow effect, popular for business branding and home décor. Note: clear acrylic requires a CO₂ laser and cannot be processed with the TOOCAA L2 or NOVA.  Personalized Keychains — Small colored acrylic cutouts, engraved with names or initials, are quick to produce and make popular gifts or retail items. Cake Toppers — Thin colored acrylic cut into custom shapes and text is a favorite for birthdays, weddings, and other celebrations.  Business Logos — Black or white acrylic engraved and cut into a logo shape makes a durable, professional-looking sign or display piece. QR Code Signs — High-contrast engraving on black or white acrylic keeps QR codes scannable while looking clean and modern.  Desk Nameplates — Engraved acrylic nameplates are a quick, professional project for offices and events. Wedding Decorations — Colored acrylic table numbers, signs, and cake toppers add a vibrant and elegant touch to wedding décor. Note: clear acrylic requires a CO₂ laser and cannot be processed with the TOOCAA L2 or NOVA. Display Stands — Cut and assembled acrylic pieces make sturdy, professional-looking stands for products or awards.  Jewelry — Colored acrylic cut into earrings, pendants, or brooches is lightweight and easy to customize. Christmas Ornaments — Small engraved and cut acrylic shapes make festive, durable ornaments for the holidays. Frequently Asked Questions Can diode lasers cut acrylic?  Yes, but only opaque and colored acrylic types. Black acrylic absorbs the diode laser's visible light most efficiently and cuts with the cleanest, smoothest edges. Colored acrylics such as red, yellow, deep blue, light green, and brown-red also cut well at the settings listed in this guide. Clear and transparent acrylic, however, cannot be cut with a diode laser — the laser's visible light passes straight through the material without being absorbed. A CO₂ laser is required for clear acrylic. What type of acrylic is best for laser engraving?  Black acrylic is generally the most diode-laser-friendly option, since it absorbs light well and engraves with strong, frosted-white contrast at relatively low power. Can I engrave clear acrylic?  No. Clear acrylic cannot be engraved or cut with a diode laser. Diode lasers emit visible light that passes straight through transparent acrylic without being absorbed, so the laser has no effect on the material regardless of power or speed settings. A CO₂ laser is required to engrave or cut clear acrylic. For the TOOCAA L2 and TOOCAA NOVA, use only the opaque and colored acrylic types listed in the settings tables above. Why are my acrylic edges melting?  Melted or rounded edges usually mean the power is too high or the speed is too slow for your acrylic's thickness. Try increasing the cutting speed or reducing power slightly, and make sure air assist is on to help clear melted debris from the cut line. Should I leave the protective film on?  Leaving the protective film on during processing can help reduce surface smoke marks and scratches, especially for cutting. For engraving designs meant to show through a clear or frosted surface, you may want to remove the film first — test both ways to see which gives the result you want. Why does acrylic become cloudy after engraving?  A cloudy or frosted appearance after engraving is a normal result of the laser melting and re-solidifying the surface — this is actually the desired effect on clear and frosted acrylic, since it's what creates visible contrast. If the clouding looks uneven, try adjusting power or speed for a more consistent finish. How many passes are needed?  Most of the acrylic settings in this guide are designed to cut or engrave in a single pass. For thicker sheets or denser colors, you may need an additional pass at the same settings without moving the material — check the cut after the first pass before deciding. Do TOOCAA L2 and NOVA use the same acrylic settings?  Yes. The TOOCAA L2 and TOOCAA NOVA use the same recommended acrylic settings when equipped with the same laser power module (10W or 20W), since both machines use the same diode laser technology. Always perform a small test, since material batches and machine calibration may vary. Why should I run a test first?  Acrylic varies by color, thickness, and manufacturer batch, so a setting that works well on one sheet may produce melted edges or inconsistent engraving on another. A quick test on scrap material avoids wasting time and material on a failed full-size job. Conclusion Getting clean, consistent results when engraving or cutting acrylic comes down to understanding your material and starting from settings that are close to correct, then fine-tuning from there. The acrylic laser engraving and cutting settings in this guide give you a solid, tested starting point across the 10W, 20W, and 40W diode modules for the TOOCAA L2, and matching 10W/20W tables for the TOOCAA NOVA, since both machines share the same diode laser type at equivalent power. Keep the TOOCAA L2 acrylic settings and TOOCAA NOVA acrylic settings tables handy as your quick reference any time you need reliable laser engraving acrylic and laser cutting acrylic settings for a new project. Whichever machine you're using, the same core habits apply: set up your device correctly in TOOCAA Studio, focus carefully, use Cut mode (not Line mode) when you need to cut all the way through, use air assist for cutting, and always run a small test before committing to your final piece. With those habits in place, both the TOOCAA L2 and TOOCAA NOVA are capable of producing clean, professional-looking acrylic engravings and flame-polished cuts for gifts, décor, signage, and small business products.